Pu-erh is an ancient tea that embodies a spirit cultivated by both nature and human tradition. Over millennia, few teas have carried such profound historical and cultural weight, radiating a strong humanistic spirit from its earliest records. In Yunnan, China, Pu-erh has sustained local populations for generations. It is deeply connected to the land and offers a unique view into the lives of the Hani, Dai, Tibetan, Blang, and Bai people, whose traditions are tightly linked to this tea.
The Hani People
The Hani people live deeply connected to the stunning mountains, flowing rivers, and misty landscapes of their home. Their famous terraced fields, which show off their lasting spirit and cleverness, are much like their strong connection to tea. For the Hani, tea is a key part of their lives, shaping their economy, daily routines, and spiritual well-being.
The Hani people have a special story about how tea began. A long time ago, a Hani man threw a big celebration after a successful leopard hunt. While eating the meat, everyone got thirsty, and as they were boiling water, some leaves accidentally blew into the pot. To their surprise, it made a really tasty and refreshing drink! They called this “lao po”, and it quickly became a huge part of Hani life.
They developed a unique way of making tea called “earthen pot tea”. It is made by heating a clay pot over the fire, roasting tea leaves until they crackle with a smoky aroma, then adding water and simmering. The result is a thick, earthy, brew with depth that reflects both the land and the craftsmanship behind it.
For over a thousand years, the Hani have looked after tea, with old tea forests standing as living reminders of their dedication. From serious marriage proposals, where tea is an essential gift, to sacred ceremonies honouring ancestors and gods, tea is everywhere in their lives. Their character, much like their tea, is simple and gentle, showing kindness, respect, and a pure heart.
The Dai People
Further south, along the peaceful Lancang River, lies the poetic world of the Dai people. Known for their graceful peacock and elephant foot drum dances, the Dai live in elegant bamboo houses tucked away in lush greenery. Here, tea, much like bamboo, is a vital part of their lives.
The Dai people have a unique tea tradition known as “bamboo tube tea”, or “la duo”. This process involves tightly packing sun-dried tea into sections of fresh, aromatic bamboo, which is then gently roasted over a wood fire. The result is an intoxicating aroma, a harmonious blend of tea and bamboo.
The Dai people's love for water and their use of bamboo have given their tea customs a special charm. For them, tea represents a warm act of hospitality, serving as a comforting and refreshing welcome for all guests. They've expertly combined bamboo and tea, adding a fresh, natural touch to the wider world of Chinese tea culture. Even the traditional “qizi cakes” (sets of seven Pu-erh cakes) are wrapped in thick bamboo casings sourced from villages across Xishuangbanna, including many Dai communities. The clear, bright waters of Dai villages beautifully complement their delicious teas, reinforcing the essential need for great water.
The Tibetan People
Moving north from the lush river valleys, at the breathtaking snowy plateaus of Tibet, tea is essential for life. An old Tibetan saying truly captures this: “Tea is blood! Tea is flesh! Tea is life!”
Tea entered Tibet during the Tubo period and, over time, became a vital daily drink as well as a kind of health tonic. Living on yak and sheep meat, tsampa (roasted barley flour), and rich yak butter, Tibetans found that strong, dark tea helped cut through fat, supported digestion, and eased some of the dryness of life at high altitude. Because Tibet produced little tea of its own, this lifeline was made possible by the famous Tea Horse Road. Caravans of horses and mules crossed dangerous mountains and valleys, carrying Yunnan and Sichuan teas into Tibet and returning with Tibetan horses, medicinal materials, salt, and other essential goods.
On these long journeys, compressed teas from Yunnan, including those from the mountains around Yinsheng, slowly changed through natural post-fermentation, helping to shape the smooth, aged character we now associate with Pu-erh.
Tibetans drink tea many times a day, from their first bowls of butter tea in the morning to their evening gatherings around the fire. In this way, Pu-erh and other dark teas have become deeply woven into Tibetan life, expressing a profound and lasting importance on the plateau.
The Blang People
The Blang people of Yunnan are strong protectors of the ancient, mountain-rooted tea forests that still nourish the leaves that become Pu-erh today. For generations, they have lived in harmony with these mountains, turning wild areas into a green ocean of tea. They are widely regarded in Chinese scholarship as descendants of the ancient Pu people, often cited as some of the earliest known tea growers, with tea linked to tribute records as far back as the Shang and Zhou dynasties.
Unlike the Dai, the Blang people find comfort and strength in the mountains. They strongly believe that high mountains produce good tea, and their mountainous homeland, often covered in mist, provides the perfect environment for tea trees to thrive. Their folk tales say that tea is a precious gift from their ancestors, a generous blessing from heaven for their constant hard work.
Blang “sour tea” is made by lightly fermenting fresh tea leaves by packing them into bamboo or sealed containers and burying or leaving them to naturally sour over time. The process creates a softly tangy, refreshing brew with a mild vegetal note and a clean, almost pickled brightness. Being a flavourful digestive aid, it is traditionally enjoyed with meals, reflecting the Blang people’s practical, mountain-rooted approach to preserving and transforming what the land provides.
Tea is a crucial spiritual element in Blang life, present in all their customs and traditions. A visit to a Blang family often includes an offering of roasted tea, its comforting smell filling the air like gentle clouds. The Blang people's strong commitment to their ancient tea mountains is a powerful reminder of their deep connection to nature and their lasting promise to look after this green hope for generations to come.
The Bai People
The Bai people’s connection to Pu-erh grew through the ancient Tea Horse Road, the historic artery that linked Yunnan to the wider world for more than two thousand years. This trade route brought Pu-erh into Bai communities and helped shape their distinctive tea traditions.
Their relationship with tea dates back to at least the Tang Dynasty, when early records describe preparations using pepper and ginger, echoes of what would later develop into the Bai “Three Courses of Tea”, a refined ritual that elevates drinking tea into a philosophy of life. This roasted-tea ceremony features specialised utensils and precise etiquette, including offering only a few sips per cup as a sign of respect. The first cup is lifted with both hands to eyebrow height before being returned to an elder, creating an elegant and respectful atmosphere. Over time, the roasted-tea practice evolved into the formal “Three Courses of Tea,” a hospitality tradition dense with symbolism. Each course expresses a life lesson: the first, slightly bitter, reflects the trials of youth; the second, sweet and fragrant, represents achievement and fulfilment; the third, clean and lingering, invites contemplation of one’s journey.
This sequence “first bitter, then sweet, and finally a lasting aftertaste” is regarded as a metaphorical passage through life, transforming tea from a daily beverage into an artistic expression of Bai culture. Often attributed to the Dali Duan family lineage, the ritual has deep roots and remains cherished today, embodying the Bai people’s graceful and philosophical approach to living amidst the beautiful landscapes of Cang Mountain and Erhai Lake.
The Human Spirit
Pu-erh, having gone through the ups and downs of time, has developed a long-lasting aftertaste and a smooth fragrance that tells of its journey. The stories of the Hani, Dai, Tibetan, and Blang people are closely linked to its history, and reflect the deep connection between Pu-erh and their physical and spiritual existence.
In ancient times, when resources were scarce, Pu-erh provided sustenance and nourishment. The legends suggest that this nourishment was not only physical but also spiritual. Pu-erh’s benefit to humanity is also evident in its ability to support health. Centuries ago, its medicinal properties were already recognised, a key factor that enabled this tea to spread from Yunnan to the global stage in ancient times.
In recent years, Pu-erh has attracted growing attention from medical and nutrition researchers. Studies using epidemiological data, animal models, and small clinical trials suggest that Pu-erh extracts may help lower blood lipids, support weight management, and improve markers related to glucose metabolism. Laboratory and animal studies also point to possible antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cancer activities, especially from Pu-erh’s pigments and polysaccharides. This research fuels a sustained international interest, making it a highly sought-after health beverage.
Beyond physical health and sustenance, Pu-erh refines wisdom and tends to the spirit. In the high-speed, efficiency-driven environment of modern society, brewing a cup of Pu-erh allows a tense mind to relax and rediscover a sense of ease, elegance, and peace amidst stress.
Pu-erh possesses a valuable characteristic of approachability. While capable of achieving the sophistication of teas like Tieguanyin or Longjing, its inherent nature allows it to comfortably enter the home of any individual. As noted in the Ming-dynasty Dianlüe, “Scholars and commoners all drink Pu-erh tea”.
Cultivated by ethnic minorities in the frontier regions, its humble origins lend its essence an earthy, mountain-fresh aroma. Furthermore, its serving form promotes a message of equality and communal sharing. When a group drinks Pu-erh, the tea pours from a single pot with uniform quality, temperature, and essence, fostering an understanding of solidarity and shared experience.
This inherent openness has allowed Pu-erh to maintain a diverse and adaptable quality throughout history. This flexibility has enabled its evolution from "tea from the mountains around Yinsheng City, gathered loosely without any specific processing methods" to the modern varieties of cakes, tuo teas, and bricks. Pu-erh's remarkable diversity has enabled it to surpass typical regional and production boundaries. This has led to a rich assortment of both loose and compressed teas, including the fascinating contrast between raw and ripe preparations.
Finally, the human spirit of Pu-erh is manifested in its determined pursuit of excellence. Every compressed Pu-erh cake is a beginning, its full potential awaiting creation through time. It is a tea that never ceases its effort to improve itself. Pu-erh, when viewed this way, stands as an enduring, powerful human revelation, perfectly preserved within our modern, materialistic era.
